Nino’s Vermentino comes from 30-year-old vines planted over clay and limestone amongst his olive groves — a hymn to the territory and to the ancient tradition of Dolceacqua, with its hilly, terraced soils and air charged with saltiness. It spends four days on skins and is aged in old casks. A traditionsl Mediterranean white, in that the use of skins and a little oxygen provide depth, grip, and savory complexity. A beautiful shade of gold in the glass, this is all aromatic herbs, sea spray, and citrus fruits — it begs for sunshine, and a nice piece of fish.