As we love to remind anyone who will listen, some of the most significant wines to be found in Abruzzo are in fact pink, a rosato-style typically known as Cerasuolo di Montepulciano, and the contents of this bottle goes a good way to explaining why — albeit we’d call this a solid, sultry magenta versus anything too bubblegum. This year on the particularly dark side of ‘rosé,’ but as nimble and textural as ever, the Cancelli is drawn from 40-year-old Montepulciano vines within a vineyard of the same name. Hand-harvested only, grapes are directly pressed, fermented with Indigenous yeast only in open vats and aged in stainless steel tanks, with no fining, no filter, and no added SO2. Zesty with the scents of late summer in the countryside, the Cancelli swirls with pools of tart red berries, pomegranate, and crushed purple flowers held taut by vibrating acidity. As with all our favorite Cerasuoli, there’s a distinctly savory streak underlying the bright fruit and florals –– grilled wild herbs, cured charcuterie, and a saline-mineral slick. Low tannins lend to high drinkability but with no lack of substance and depth. No need to chill this too much, but please serve on the fresher side.