A first for us from perennial favorites Roberto and Lucia, ’Aliter' revives the Tuscan tradition of varietal blending; ancient clones of Sangiovese, Canaiolo, and Malvasia Nera in this case are co-fermented with their native yeasts, and the finished wine matures in oak barrels for 6 months. Most striking in ‘Aliter’ to our mind is its interplay between bracingly bright red and purple fruit and darker-toned, richer, and savory elements, often almost kissed by fire — smoky brambles, charred berries, pomegranate syrup, caramelized brown sugar, and hoisin sauce. It’s still super fresh and vibrant with nervy minerality, silly tannins, and more subtle flavors of wild mulberries, black cherry, dark anise, and dried hibiscus and rose. High acid, sour strawberry, and smoke on the finish beg for a complementary plate — something grilled, rich, and sumptuous — at the dinner table.