Grignolino can sadly sometimes suffer from jarringly astringent tannins--a tough mouthful when juxtaposed against what is often a nimble and light-handed frame. Though when it’s a bottle perfectly in the zone - like this - one is treated to a punchy, aromatic fireworks show in liquid form. Like an Aperol Spritz in red wine disguise, the Margherita Barbero - a wine raised entirely in clay amphora - reels with singed navel orange rind, fresh grapefruit, Angostura bitters and layers of menthol-y, yuletide spice that seem invoke some kind of ‘Christmas in July’ vibe. Pulled from a parcel of vines adjacent to the hill of La Mandorla, the site here has a higher density of clay and limestone in its soil.