A newer release for the estate, the '700' here referring to the meters of altitude at which the Nero d’Avola at Il Censo is planted. A beguiling combination of plushness and tension, with fruits in the dark-red part of the spectrum, and plenty of driving energy. Nero d’Avola can often be one-note even when it is perfectly delicious, but not here, as this inaugural vintage shows the true potential of Il Censo’s terroir for the production of great red wine. Fruits lean toward black cherry and blackberry, with notes of licorice and dark chocolate. It’s a proud sun-drenched southerner, ample and gregarious, but with tons of high-toned spice to balance, as well as a well-mannered flirtation with volatility that remains firmly on the correct side of the fence.