The wines from Roberto Ceraudo's estate in Calabria are recognizable for how effectively what's in the glass expresses its identity and how it got there. The ‘Petelia – the ancient Greek name for the village of Strongoli – exudes freshness from the hottest spot in Italy. Equal parts Greco and Matonico, it’s spicy, herbal, and floral at the onset, with mimosa, ginger, and incense giving way to crushed nectarine and yellow peach. Soft and round on the palate, there’s a salty mineral core and tart orchard fruit that add welcome, refreshing contrast, finishing with a tropical flourish of citrus and melon, leaving the mouth watering for more. Raised entirely in steel and no matter its imminent quaffability, this is a level up from your average beachy, Southern Italian, warm-weather porch pounder: it’s a total pleasure and sophisticated, a welcoming but confident wine.