Sangiovese is the main grape at Caparsa, maybe one of the most charming and beautiful areas in the world and one of the highest quality wine-production areas, too. Grapes for ‘Doccio a Matteo’ are manually harvested, with spontaneous fermentation in concrete vats; maturation is in old oak vats for two and a half years. From the stellar, and long-lived 2016 vintage, this is a wine of power, depth, and concentration, with a quixotic sense of exoticness to it. High-toned aromatics add character along with an element of rusticity that nevertheless works quite well here, with macerated cherry, plum, leather, cloves, menthol, and coffee that all develop with time. A dollop of Colorino contributes further shades of nuance and complexity, and there’s a hint of fig, leather, and iron in the finish. A totally compelling wine done in a decidedly old-school nod.