Canus’ 2019 Ribolla Gialla offers a super fresh and classically wrapped interpretation of a variety that is often more widely seen and celebrated on the Slovenian side of the border (and even deeper into eastern Europe.) A brisk and focused nose of lime, bosc pear, white flowers, chalky mineral, and crushed stone dazzles, as the palate delivers dimensions and persistence that seem to far outweigh the wine’s modest price tag. The gorgeously oily/nutty roundness one would expect from Ribolla is here, wedged into place by plum skin, yellow orchard fruit, acacia and more of that distinctual pear character. A truly classical rendition of one of northern Italy’s great white grapes, one that will appeal to anyone that enjoys the push-pull of fleshy, rounded fruit and shimmering and crunchy mineral cut.