100% bush-trained Cannonau from 20-year-old vines in the Sas de Melas vineyard, near the village of Mamoiada. The quality of site and fruit (and Luca’s deft decision-making that allows him to remain hands off) all come through here. 600 meters above sea level, an altitude unusual for reds, gives the wine uncommon freshness, as cooler night-time temperatures mean higher acidity in the grapes. Fermentation begins using indigenous yeasts only, encouraged by a ‘pied de cuve’, as Luca believes (so do we) that cultured yeasts don’t give a wine that truly is representative of place. Vinified entirely in steel, it shows surprisingly depth, indicative of the pristine base material used. A cascade of wild strawberry, blackberry, dried mint and smokey sage reel off the rose, followed by fresh fruit notes on the palate, met by soft, fine tannins, and a broad, velvety, generous structure, befitting the ‘Berteru’ (‘sincere’) name. Cannonau at its purest!