Quite limited in production, as it is difficult to produce and even more difficult to find the “true” variety. (The Pigato variety is thought to be a genetic mutation of Vermentino, even though producers usually insist that they are completely different grapes — Pigato has its origins in Liguria (via Greece), and while Vermentino has dispersed to many other regions, Pigato has remained resolutely local.) Quite rich, a little floral, and exotic, this 100% Pigato is fermented and aged in stainless steel, spending about six months in contact with its lees. Evocative aromas of lemon/lime, green apple, yellow peach, pine nuts, wild fennel, and sea salt abound, followed by some texture on the mid-palate and a cleansing blast of acidity. A wine of finesse and intrigue that pairs exceedingly well with the fish married to herbs that is traditional in Lugurian cuisine.