Comprised mostly of Passerina del Frusinate combined with a small portion of Bellone and Ottonese, Maria’s approachable, light-skin-contact white may be proportioned like a Chablis, but with a little rise in temperature once out of the fridge, it morphs into something quite evocative and singular. After pressing, juice spends 36 hours on skins, before aging in the same concrete tanks. As always, it exemplifies minimal intervention wine making; no added sulfites and no filtering or fining. The aromatics of citrus peel, fennel, quartz, and green tea give way to a palate that is just as provocative as it is refreshing: pebbly sea salt with a quince-toned tang.