The bone-dry Moscati of Sicily are a rare breed that occupy a special place all of their own, especially considering most people’s direct associations with the noun ‘Moscato’ is the adjective ‘sweet.’ Mortellito’s ‘Viara’ bottling is derived of a clonal selection of Moscato native to this corner of Sicily, known as Moscatella di Noto. Melding the intensely aromatic and distinctly golden hallmarks of the Moscato family – think orange blossom, barely ripe quince, yellow nectarine, the glow of sunset – with a wonderfully sapid and herbal texture. The arid climate in this corner of Sicily acts only to increase the florality of the Viara, while delivering an incisively minty freshness, with oodles of crushed spearmint rolling briskly into a tongue-smacking dryness on the finish. When people speak of the concept of ‘island wines,’ this is the kind of stuff they’re talking about. The perfect crudo pairing partner!