The rarely seen Prëmetta is a historic if little-known indigenous Valdostana variety which ripens early and gives bright, tangy flavors, very gentle tannins, and gleaming Alpine acidity. Made from 90% Premetta and 10% Cornalin and sourced from the highest vineyards of the domaine at 800 meters, the Grosjeans’ version sees a short week of maceration, is aged in steel tanks, and yields a dry wine that is light in color and body but which houses some seriously nuanced substance. On the surface, any wine made from red grapes with such a deliberately short maceration could be called a rosé wine, but then again, there are examples of this type of wine skewing toward a more structured, deeper-colored version — think our favorite Cerasuoli d’Abruzzo — that are far from the easy-breezy sipping. This is the slippery slope that Premetta lives on, both figuratively and literally; some years paler and more rosato-like, some years quite meaty and tannic, the 2023 is our Platonic-ideal Premetta. Exuberant sour-cherry fruit, a strong mineral spine, fresh mountain herbs, and a smoky, baking-spicey streak make this both richly fruited and bracingly bright enough for pretty much any occasion. Extremely limited in production.