It's time to get to know Vitovska, an indigenous grape of Friuli and Slovenia (which were, of course, one and the same), whose profile is inextricably linked to its environment. Grown in the Carso district of Italy near Trieste, between mountains (the Alps) and sea (the Adriatic), it’s a variety that marries the identities of these climatic forces effortlessly. It’s an extreme and strongly territorial grape, for which there are no similar varieties throughout the Mediterranean; in the past it was often vinified to blend with other cultivars, especially Malvasia Istriana, but increasingly now is offered in its crystalline purity. Golden in the glass, Castelvecchio’s Vitovska shows layers of white peach, yellow nectarine, and Asian pear wrapped in honeysuckle, bergamot, and a touch of soft sage and lemon verbena. There’s an undertow of mineral smoke and salt spray — an unmistakable echo of the Carso’s limestone and wind. On the palate, tart stone fruits mingle with mandarin and apricot jam, expanding into a silky, mid-weight texture that remains taut and precise. Bright acidity and a flicker of bitterness lend structure, while notes of almond essence and dried oolong tea carry it toward a long, savory, mineral finish. Perfect for the season, it’s a wine that feels luxurious without ever overdoing it.