This is Valgella (one of Valtellina's prized 'cru' villages) at its most vibrant and most transparently raw. Derived almost entirely of Chiavennasca (Nebbiolo) with just a smidge of Rossola (a Nebbiolo cousin), the wine is fermented in steel and raised in old chestnut and acacia barrels for a year. Slightly more low-toned and brooding cherry and raspberry elements lurk deep in the glass, pocked with hippy-incense spice, spearmint, and dried purple florals. I’d give it another year to blossom, or drink it quick, then buy more for the cellar.