La Staffa's Verdicchio ‘normale’ is anything but – grown organically in limestone-rich soil at 400 meters above sea level, the high altitude preserving acidity, always lending its lip-smacking, fresh, green-apple zing. Plots are 12-50 years old and individually hand-harvested and vinified; Riccardo then selects the final blend, which sees aging in cement and steel, before an additional 6 months in bottle on fine lees. Bursting from the glass with a smoky mix of flint, dried peaches, and white flowers – like taking a sledgehammer to an unearthed chunk of limestone – it’s round yet deeply textured, vibrating with driving mineral tension. Bartlett pear, tart white nectarines, and lemon zest with spring herbs and almonds abound, with a salty-citrus finish that seemingly never ends (and then you take another sip!). A serious over-performer year after year.