Vermentino grows throughout Liguria, but the best is in the 'zona dell’albenganese,' or the region around and above the coastal town of Albenga; here you'll find Claudio Vio's scant two hectares of mountainside vineyards, looking down on the sea a few hundred meters below. Grapes are hand harvested and aged in stainless tell, spending a few months on their lees for added texture and depth. A wine that speaks of place: crisp, mineral, and saline is most of what you need to know, but an undeniable savory edge sets this apart as well. Think sage and thyme instead of tropical fruit, with zesty lemon, yellow apple, and a dry, bitter almond finish. Perfect at your summer table – bring on the pesto and grilled seafood and veggies! – but with enough intrigue and oomph on its own to act as a kind of seasonal vino da meditazione post-meal.