Hugues Godmé is one of those few independent grower-winemakers in Champagne (récoltant-manipulants) who utilizes the full range of available options when crafting his wines. As a strong believer in viticultural determinism, Hugues adheres to a strict organic and biodynamic regimen in his vineyards. He grows all three major varieties of grapes; and, moreover, produces single vintage, single varietal, blended and multi-vintage cuvées. His biodynamic approach, which includes plowing, cover cropping and homeopathic treatments, forces the roots deeper in a more mineral-rich environment, thereby generating soil-driven grapes that are at once riper with higher concentrations of sugar and acidity.
Godmé vinifies his parcels separately and, depending on the vintage, the grapes and the terroir, may ferment in enameled stainless steel tanks or in oak barrels, or in a combination of both – even for a single cuvée. Malolactic fermentation, similarly, varies according to the grape and terroir, and most cuvees include some wine that has passed through malo as well as some wine that has not. The blends vary from year to year, with the cepage determined by the character of the base year. Godmé makes very generous use of reserve wines, and most cuvées include four and sometimes five different vintages. The dosage, similarly, varies according to the cuvée, with some wines having zero dosage and others reaching 7 or 8 gm/L.