Giovanni’s 2011 Etna Rosso ‘Pirao’ allows us the not all too common opportunity to delve into Nerello Mascalese with some in-built maturity. Sourced from an 80 year old, alberello-trained parcel affectionately known is Pirao from within the contrada of Prezzemolo, the wine undergoes native fermentation in larger botti before being transferred to smaller barrels (250-500L) for 2 years of development in the cellar. In its youth the Pirao can be bristling and fiercely savory, though now with 10 years of integration under its belt, the wine has evolved into something far more rounded and textural. Soil driven elements of ash and smoke center an aromatic core of spicy red rose, violet and lavender, lashed with dark cherries and drier red berries. Tactile and saline, it’s a juicy mouthfeel that is quickly tempered by a delicate floral/herbal high note and plenty more of that brimstone-ish drive. Drink now through 2025.