The wines from Roberto Ceraudo's estate in Calabria are recognizable for how effectively what's in the glass expresses its identity and how it got there. The 2021 Rosso Nanà wafts up from the glass with a darkly alluring blend of dusty rose and musky black currants. This is round and pliant, with a sweet and sour interplay of wild berries and citrus, all guided by juicy acidity. It finishes pleasantly chewy and lightly structured, leaving a tart black cherry concentration that slowly fades.