Ca' La Bionda's Alessandro Castellani worked as a winemaker in the cellars at Chateau Margaux, Isole e Olena, and a ‘who's who’ of other top European estates before returning to oversee his family's small certified organic farm in Valpolicella. Perhaps it's no surprise, then, that these wines feel like the Veneto's answer to Burgundian Pinot Noir. All Alessandro’s wines – be it the Valpolicella Classico, Ripasso, or Amarone – possess a sophistication, minerality, and poise that, in our experience, is unique in the region. We’ve seen firsthand Ca’ La Bionda’s capacity to ‘flip’ folks from Valpolicella doubters – especially those Amaroen skeptics, of which we often count ourselves, too! – to lovers. In terms of complexity, cellar aging potential and bona fide soil character, this property is simply a cut above the rest. And it’s been that way for a while: Ca’ La Bionda was started in 1902 by Alsessandro’s great-great-grandfather and continues thriving today. Every step of the way, attention is given to tradition, as opposed to modern, quick winemaking; despite this meticulous care, Alessandro’s wines rarely receive much mainstream press, which is just fine by him.
A style often thought of only as big, burly, and overwhelmingly alcoholic, Alessandro’s Amarone delivers on intensity and depth without all the heavy, cloying trappings of more commercially produced bottlings. The estate’s calcareous-loamy, stony soils and hilly vineyards with south-eastern exposure lend freshness and elegance, essential characteristics for long-lived wines. To make Amarone, only the least compact grape bunches with the best exposure to sunlight in the vineyard are selected. After picking, grapes are dried in small wooden crates until December, during which every berry loses about 40% of its weight due to the loss of water from dehydration, creating and concentrating the wine’s unique aromas and flavors. Fruits is then fermented in stainless steel tanks and left to age for 42 months in 3000 liter oak barrels. Youthfully understated in the glass, the 2017 opens with nuances of sweet spice and mint complementing a hint of dusty cherry. Ripe strawberries, cinnamon, and hints of dark chocolate can be found throughout; however, this is not a rich and hedonistic wine. Instead, it’s lifted and vibrant, whose exceptionally pure and energetic style holds its power in reserve while impressing with a blend of vividly ripe red fruits motivated by brilliant acidity. Its minerality comes through in the finish, along with gently grippy tannins and inner rose tones. The 2017 tapers off potent yet incredibly fresh. Even with how pretty this is today, a few years of cellaring will only enhance its inherent beauty and complexity. Drink 2025 - 2034.