Despite its historical proximity to Florence and its role in making some of the most well-known Tuscan wines of the last century, San Casciano in Val di Pesa is not necessarily an appellation of Chianti Classico that leaps to mind (perhaps this is because it has in recent decades been dominated by large producers who bought fruit, thus neutralizing differences in terroir and in the cellar.) There is undeniable energy brewing in San Casciano however, and nowhere more so than at Cigliano di Sopra. Here, Maddalena Fucile and Matteo Vaccari craft graceful, articulate, compelling wines on Maddalena’s family estate, which up until 2016 sold in bulk. Cigliano di Sopra comprises eight hectares and a dozen plots with every possible exposure, all cooled by winds blowing from the sea. The cellar is located below a building on the property dating to the 14th century. Far from being stuck in the past, Maddalena and Matteo – who, while still young, have put in immense effort and forethought into their work, working with some of the greatest producers in Chianti Classico (Fontodi, Isole e Olena) and beyond (Evening Land, Domaine de la Cote) – are passionate about the future of their estate and their winemaking ambitions, built around parcel-by-parcel whole-berry fermentations, sulfur additions only at bottling, and the use of massale selections from top producers (and dear friends) in the zone for replanting. There is both an unmatched freshness and an unmistakable presence across their lineup, and a very promising indication of what’s to come.
An even split between Chianti’s classic red varieties – Sangiovese, Canaiolo, and Colorino – from young and old vines, the Ciglianello sees the estate's hallmark use of whole-berry fermentation, adding a lip-smacking juiciness and aromatic intensity (thanks to some intracellular fermentation) and structure (grace of the stem inclusion). Fermentation is in steel, followed by 14 months of aging in cement, and at least 6 months in bottle. A very pretty, elegant, and gentle wine, though still deeply expressive of both the warm generosity of the San Casciano terroir and of Maddalena and Matteo’s style. Fresh on the nose with ripe raspberries, strawberry kefir, orange zest, dried fig, fresh roses, wild marjoram, and earth, it eases onto the palate with silky tannins and a refreshing line of acidity. Subtle herbal tones balance a bright, succulent fruit profile in a sublimely pleasing way. Pure class, but far from pretentious.