The ‘Saldalama’ Rosso Frizzante is a chameleon-like Emilian bubbly, driven by Lambrusco Grasparossa, one of the most inky, sanguine and savory of all the Lambrusco sub-types, but full of life from its more obscure components as well, lifted high on the addition of brighter streaks of Lambrusco di Sorbara and Trebbiano Modenese, a local clone of the ubiquitous central Italian white variety. Harvested, fermented and raised separately (all of this occurring in stainless tanks), all varieties are brought together under the crescent moon in late May of the following year, spurred into a secondary fermentation in bottle with the addition of sweet grape must. Strawberry gastrique, rose hips, beef tartare, fir, damp forest, wet rocks… all of this carried on a wave of crisp, dry and spice-riddled fizz.