'Spuma' is his bottle-fermented metodo ancestral made from the geeky high-acid Sorbara grape; if you’re an acid-head, and also like lasagna, there’s no better grape to look for in Emilia-Romagna than Sorbara. Long considered the more mineral-driven and less fruity Lambrusco grape, Sorbara makes sparkling wines that are pinky in hue (though this is technically not a rosato), and racy, tingling with unripe red fruits. Generations ago, according to Denny, it was always a bit of a revelation for farmers going down into the cellar to see if a bottle of their fermented wine would actually undergo secondary fermentation, and had the fizz or spuma ooze out. If it did, one declared Spuma! in anticipatory celebration of something fizzy for a meal or aperitivo.