The grapes for 'A'Culonna' grow in Scirto’s primary, pumice-rich vineyard, Contrada Feudo di Mezzo, 600 meters above sea level. The Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio vines average 80 years old and see the traditional 85/15 blend. The wine gets its name from the volcanic rock column that serves as a local meeting place in Passopisciaro, where Giuseppe’s grandfather used to take him as a boy. When visitors came to town, they’d see Giuseppe’s grandfather sitting by the column and asked him where they could buy wine. His grandfather was only too happy to oblige and led the visitors to his own cantina! Giuseppe and Valeria make this wine at the Calabretta estate (Biondivino favs!), where they allow it an extended maceration – up to 45 days, depending on the vintage. Elevage is in 2000L Slovenian oak botti for 18 months, followed by a further 6 months in bottle before release. In the glass, it is intense and bright in all aspects: aromas of ripe red fruit, rhubarb and graphite on the nose are followed by round, full, fresh, and savory notes on the palate; an almost animalistic ferocity quakes in the bottle, with grace notes of racy cherry, orange zest, and a bit of wild thyme.