We went searching high and higher for a Chianti with extreme bevibilità (drinkability), plus laser-detailed fruit and minerals. After consulting Google maps and topography maps, and getting lost in the twists and turns, we ended up near Radda, where Roberto Bianchi farms his vineyard facing Le Pergole Torte. You might think that having an opposite exposure to that famous vineyard would be a disadvantage; but it’s quite the contrary when you factor in global warming. Roberto’s father was ridiculed and thrown out of the DOCG a generation ago for his lightly-colored, acidic Sangiovese. How the tides have turned. Roberto’s vineyards are full of flowers by day and fireflies by night. A large hill in the background gives shade to the too-hot sun of recent years, and the almost 500 m. / 1640 ft. altitude brings an exhilarating tweak to the well-known elegance of Radda. Seven hectares, compost, native yeasts, certified organic.