Indicative of its cooler climes, there is a markedly lithe and pretty feel to Paolo's 2015 Riserva. 100% Sangioveto (the ancient, Lamole-native clone of Sangiovese), it opens with earthier aromas of tilled soil, baked plum and leather. The dense, solid palate delivers riper black cherry, licorice and a touch of star anise alongside smooth, seasoned tannins.