A powerful example of terroir, the remote village of Lamole is farmed by only nine producers across 80 hectares, of which half are managed by a single estate. Nestled within a dense chestnut forest, vineyards climb to 600 meters above sea level creating a uniquely cool microclimate for Sangiovese. This combination of altitude, woodland and “Macigno” sandstone soils, crucially, emphasizes elegance, freshness, and aromatic finesse in the final wines. Some of Italy’s oldest producing vines cling to terraces here, preserved under conditions that have long impeded disease. Today, the few remaining farmers who still employ the ancient Albarello Lamolese (bush training) method channel the intuitive, hands-on farming techniques that date back to the Romans and earlier. Serena Coccia is a second-generation vignaiola who passionately champions her site, its unique microclimate, and her wine’s individuality. Her family’s history here begins in the early 1900s, when Serena’s great-great-grandfather worked as a sharecropper. Under the mezzadria system, grapes were merely an afterthought to olives and iris harvested for perfume. Life was brutal, and by the 1960s, most families had moved to the cities. Yet, when the estate went up for sale in 1962, Serena’s grandfather defied convention and bought the land. “Everyone said they were fools to buy it,” Serena recalls, “but they had a passion for the farm and a love of the work.” The estate was amicably split in 1985, with Serena’s father, Paolo Coccia, inheriting nine hectares. Only three hectares are planted to vines on a northwest facing hillside with slopes reaching 50 percent. The ridgeway above it is home to the family’s home and cantina; the rest remains covered in chestnuts and dotted with olives. After more than 70 harvests, Paolo remains a steady hand, a watchful eye, and master of Lamole’s terroir. But now, with Serena having returned home to take the reins in the early 2010s, she and her sisters make up an all-female led team.
The Coccia sisters adhere to organic protocols, planting cover crops between rows for ecological diversity. The grapes used to produce their Riserva are selected from the heart of a 60-year-old vineyard called Vigna Maroni, situated within a chestnut grove. After picking, conducted entirely by hand, the hum of natural fermentations lasts two to three weeks, during which regular pump-overs and gentle punch-downs are performed in cement to extract depth. Aging is carried out entirely in cement – a throw back to Lamole practices of old, which, compared to wood, allows the pure, authentic character of the grape and the specific terroir to shine through – for 24 months followed by at least six months in bottle. An elegant expression of high-altitude Sangiovese, it has a bright ruby hue and complex aromas of wild berries, violets, and subtle balsamic garden herbs, changing all the time in the glass. On the palate, suave fruit, fresh acidity, and rich tannins that are practically aromatic provide structure and longevity, and lead to a long, mineral-driven finish. This is deeply expressive and not only a standout example of where Chianti is heading, but a vibrant reminder of what it has always been. Drink now - 2035