The Porta del Vento winery sits high on the sandy plains above above Palermo, near the village of Camporeale. This northwesterly corner of Sicily is one of harsh climes and backbreaking vineyard work, with steep slopes, high winds and scorching mid-summer temperature countered by huge temperature swings into chilly, high-elevation nights. Here, Marco Sferlazzo's eighteen hectares of albarello, or 'bush vine' trained vineyards - the bulk of which exceed 50 years of age - cling to sandy, limestone-riddled hillsides, the vines' bushy exteriors acting as a shield of sorts to all that mother nature throws at them.