Showcasing potent structure with finesse and a kaleidoscopic complexity of flavor, this is a pinnacle of Sangiovese. Inward-looking at the very beginning, it goes from first to sixth gear in seconds and grabs all your attention and admiration in the process. Parallels to the red wines of Burgundy abound in discussions of Poggio di Sotto. Normally a paler hue of ruby than other Brunello wines, Poggio di Sotto’s tameness of color belies concentrated aromas and flavors. The 2017 is an impossibly graceful wine from a challenging vintage. This bottle defies the odds—and the dry heat of the growing season—to reveal soft layers of cherry, cassis and more vibrant fruit. It glides clear over the palate with silky momentum, and you only notice the tannins at the very end. Even those should soften and integrate as this collectible wine continues it bottle evolution. Production is 19,000 bottles. Best after 2024.