In recent years, climate change has been altering the calculus of how and where different grape varieties can be grown successfully. In Piedmont, Nebbiolo is typically grown at altitudes between 200 and 500 meters in regions where it is classically propagated, namely Barolo, Barbaresco and the Alto Piemonte area. But in 2015, a Canadian/American transplant in Piedmont, Clay McLachlan, decided to plant just over one hectare of Nebbiolo at an altitude of 610 to 650 meters at his house in Bonvicino in the Alta Langa - where typically hazelnuts or grapes for sparkling wine are planted!
While most Nebbiolo grown at altitude tends to be easy-going, fruit-forward and a bit lighter in style and structure, San Lorenzo Alto combines the soaring, floral, earthy/red-fruited aromatics of the site with a bit more heft and depth. This stems from the hands of its creators, who both feel that something more complex and serious can hearken from these high-altitude vineyards. Alas, there are few references for wines of this type grown in this subzone. Yet, with the birth of McLachlan’s Vino Rosso, it's possible to envision a bright future in which top winemakers who meet the growing challenges of climate change usher forth new horizons in quality in one of the world's most famous wine regions.