The organically farmed San Michele vineyard faces northeast toward the Adriatic, whose constant breezes temper the Mediterranean heat; they also help to sharpen the natural freshness of the resulting wine, while the clay- and limestone-rich soils over marl and sandstone add weight and mineral grip. Natively fermented and aged in cement with frequent bâtonnage for seven months, then rested for at least nine months in bottle, this Verdicchio is built for texture as much as clarity. Aromatically, it’s intense yet precise: strong herbal lift and floral tones lead, layered with elderflower, lemon peel, and a distinct stony note. Subtle almond notes sit just beneath, adding warmth without softening the line. On the palate, bright acidity and savory minerality take the lead, twinkling with lime zest and green apple against a finely worked texture. The finish is long, saline, and persistent, balancing freshness with quiet depth. Like a great Chablis, it’s equally compelling with oysters or as a foil to richer, cream-driven dishes that crave cut and energy.
Campanelli is a small, quietly ambitious project based in San Paolo di Jesi, at the heart of the Castelli di Jesi in the Marche. At its center is Francesco Campanelli, whose work is driven less by tradition for tradition’s sake and more by a clear fascination with difference — how the same grape can speak in multiple, hyper-local voices. Verdicchio is the through-line, but not the endpoint. Campanelli farms a series of small, geographically defined plots — Palombare, San Nicolò, San Michele, and Cerrete — each with its own exposure, soils, and elevation. Rather than blending away those distinctions, Francesco vinifies these parcels separately and often differently, treating each cru as its own question and its own answer. The goal is clarity, not uniformity. The vineyards are farmed organically and harvested entirely by hand. Alongside Verdicchio, Campanelli also works with Trebbiano, Malvasia, Montepulciano, and Canaiolo Nero, varieties that further underline his interest in contrast and specificity rather than scale or sameness. What emerges is a focussed and expressive range of wines that map the Castelli di Jesi in detail, village by village, slope by slope. Francesco isn’t trying to define Verdicchio with a single statement; he’s exploring its many possibilities, letting the particularity of place remain intact and clearly visible in the glass.