Close readers will know by now that we can get, shall we say, a little Pelaverga preoccupied, essentially jumping at the chance to snag whatever we can of this Verduno speciality, one for whom there are less than a dozen local producers (and fewer exported). Pelaverga is at its core lively and refreshing; pale in color and lithe on the palate, what Pelaverga may lack in tannins and heft, it makes up for in its delightful, very distinctive floral aromatics and vibrant acidity (hello, food-friendly). It's full of wild strawberry with a dash of plum jam and hallmark herbal notes – rosemary, wild thyme, anise – with a hint of fresh white pepper at the end. It takes well to a chill and most any meal, with a combination of esoteric pedigree and extreme agreeability that’s hard to match, and is no exception. The 2022 'Speziale' is a rich, dramatic wine, with amped-up red fruit, orange peel, mint, sage and cedar. A fine example of one of our favorite varieties.