Just across the French-Italian border from Nice, on the dramatically steep hillsides of western Liguria, Alessandro Anfosso farms Rossese in the Rossese di Dolceacqua DOC, representing the sixth generation of his family to cultivate this finicky grape that is capable of producing gorgeous wines. Anfosso’s Rosseses, made slightly inland on near-vertical rocky terraces, are darker, more structured, and charming in an altogether different way. The fruit—think cherries and strawberries—is more reserved, with smoke and stones sharing the stage. This wine pairs spectacularly with grilled and braised meats as well as a mushroom-based pasta or pizza.