The Gorizia region — and indeed the Paraschos estate — is probably best known for their whites, AKA oranges, as the winemaking tradition in the area consists of skin contact wines from the locally typical Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana, and Friulano. Alexis Paraschos uses the maceration rather lightly, aiming at harmony between freshness, tannins, and body – and the sheer seductive drinkability of these wines proves him right. ‘Orange One’ is a blend of all three varieties, honoring this tradition. Grapes are hand-harvested at optimum maturity, then macerated on skins in open vats for a couple of days. After aging at least 24 months in large Slavonian oak barrels, the wine is bottled solely by gravity, with no filtration, fining, or sulfur added. Richly aromatic and pleasantly wild, the ‘Orange One’ has an intense nose and palate of stone-fruit compote, resin woody spices, orange peel, and a touch of roses. The body is finessed and lithe, the finish long, and balance spot-on, punctuated with a distinct cave-like minerality and earthy agave notes. One of those skin-contact wines equally suited for those who are getting tired of or freshly acquainted with serious orange wines.
“This year, we were like monks in Burgundy,” Alexis Paraschos acknowledges with his typically warm smile, “no travel, no party, just working and observing our vines doing well.” There’s no trace of longing for the busy life on the go of the more “normal” years in his voice; maybe it’s because the “fairs & flights” part of the job is usually done by his more outspoken brother Jannis anyways, or maybe because — and this is our bet — the Collio area is a pretty nice spot to get stuck in. The family’s agriturismo, located just above the cellar, overlooks lush vine-covered slopes and valleys and makes you sympathize with the rich merchants of the Habsburg empire who made Gorizia their favorite holiday spot. Although the Paraschos winery started in the 1990s when Alexis’ father Evangelos became inspired by neighboring Gravner wines that he liked to serve in the family restaurant, the family actually has the luck to own some vines that hail almost a century back, on both sides of the border. The estate has been organic since the beginning and went completely natural (indigenous yeast only, no filtration, no SO2 added) in 2003, after moving to a newly built cellar that finally allowed them to work this way. No wonder the vines look so happy and healthy despite their significant age. “We couldn’t do it otherwise,” Alexis shrugs, still smiling.