Grillo is the star white variety of this corner of western Sicily and the de Bartoli’s Vignaverde, or "green wine" is the result of some early pickings from one of the family’s most revered parcels, Samperi. What began as an attempt to simply cull fruit to allow for greater concentration in the remaining grapes to be used for the purposes of Marsala production, evolved into the wine in your glasses this month, a dry and zesty take on Grillo, chock full of saline minerals, scrubby coastal herbs, key lime and citrus blossom. Fermented and aged in stainless tank after a brief period on skins, the Vignaverde is all coolness and freshness, a bracing dip in the briny oceans below, a cool, saline mouthful to help battle the afternoon’s rays.