Part old-vine Merlot, a varietal that while international in reputation has a century-plus-long history in this corner of the Veneto, and part Gropella, an ancient varietal (known as Pignola Valtellinesse in Lombardia) that has in recent years been yanked back from the brink of extinction by a select group of dedicated growers around Breganze, with fruit drawn from volcanic soils and whole bunches undergoing a few weeks of carbonic maceration. Reminiscent of lo-fi, farmer-style Beaujolais, the Toro offers soft and tangy red berry fruit, with aromatics that oscillate between sweet and savory - cranberry marmalade and fresh tilled soil, strawberry sherbert and mushroom broth.