The Padovani sisters of Fonterenza have around 4.2 contiguous hectares in the hills near Poggio San Polo, the southeastern part of the Montalcino zone. Their farming is certified biodynamic, the work painstakingly manual; harvest is always by hand. Their Brunello comes from a mere hectare's worth of fruit from their prized 'Vigna del Bosco' parcel, a site they planted themselves in 2000. (It's is surrounded entirely by the woods, or 'bosco.') Their Brunello spends six years in a 2500L botte and is a concentrated, complex wine: riserva-level in character and beyond riserva in its aging process. It captivates with a heady bouquet: Violette candies give way to crushed black cherries, cloves, balsamic spice and Tuscan dust. Velvety textures and full-bodied weight communicate undeniable elegance, all perfectly balanced by the saline-minerals, brisk acids and a wave of tart wild berry fruits within. Dark but not overwrought, sensate, meditative wine. We wish all Brunelli were this engrossing and deep.